At a small bar near Hyochang Park in Seoul in late March, a group of diners gathered over fermented soybeans.
The occasion was the second ¡°natto competition,¡± organized by Nottodo Natto & Bar, a small venue run by Je Joon-hyuk that serves dishes centered on natto, a traditional Japanese staple known for its distinct texture and a
»çÀÌ´ÙÄðÁ¢¼Ó¹æ¹ý roma.
Despite its name, the gathering had no winners. Instead, regular customers and fellow small business owners brought their own natto-based dishes to serve others, turning the space into
Çѱ¹¸±°ÔÀÓ something closer to a communal table than a contest.
¡°Natto is a food where preferences are very divided,¡± Je said, adding to the idea that the appeal of natto lies not in its universality,
¹Ù´ÙÀ̾߱â°ÔÀÓÀå but in its divisiveness. ¡°Some people really love it, while others don¡¯t even want to try it. But that also means the people who come here tend to connect more deeply.¡±
That dynamic led to
¹Ù´ÙÀ̾߱âºÎȰ the creation of the event. What began as conversations among regulars ? sharing personal ways of eating natto ? evolved into a space where those ideas could be presented to a wider audience.
¿À¼ÇÆÄ¶ó´ÙÀ̽º»çÀÌÆ® A stall prepares natto kimchi fried rice during the second "natto competition" held at Nottodo Natto & Bar in Hyochang Park, Seoul, on March 29. (Tammy Park/The Korea Herald)
Visitors line up to sample dishes at the natto event at Nottodo Natto & Bar in Seoul. (Tammy Park/The Korea Herald)
Natto, a traditional Japanese staple made from fermented soybeans, is known for its sticky texture and distinct aroma. While it can be an acquired taste, more people are seeking it out for its health benefits. On the day of the event, an assortment of creative dishes ? from natto kimchi fried rice to natto quiche ? were brought together in one place. (Tammy Park/Hanna Park)
Despite its origins in Japan, the dishes on display reflected something more fluid. Participants reworked the ingredient through flavors familiar to Koreans, incorporating it into dishes such as kimchi fried rice, perilla oil noodles and pasta variations.
For Je, this reinterpretation goes beyond culinary experimentation.
Originally starting his career in Japan, he said he has long been interested in creating connections between Korea and Japan. Now based in Seoul, he sees the space as an unexpected point of exchange ? whether through collaborations with Japanese local governments or by introducing Korean-made natto to Japanese tasting events.
¡°In some ways, I feel like I¡¯m creating more exchange now than when I was in Japan,¡± he said.
Je Joon-hyuk, owner of Nottodo Natto & Bar, with a pack of his homemade natto at his restaurant near Hyochang Park in Seoul (Tammy Park/The Korea Herald)
Familiar formats, new ingredient
The event brought together 10 participating teams, alongside live music performances that gave the afternoon a relaxed, almost festival-like atmosphere. Some visitors arrived with preorders placed weeks in advance, while others stopped by after hearing music drift through the alley.
For many participants, it was their first time working with natto. Yet a common approach emerged: start with something familiar, and layer natto into it.
¡°We wanted it to feel like a spring picnic,¡± said Simae from Do Eat, a duo centered around food and seasonal cooking. For the event, they served shepherd¡¯s purse natto rice balls with yuzu miso and natto egg sandwiches.
¡°For many Koreans, natto isn¡¯t something they grew up eating,¡± said Jung Ji-young, also part of the duo. ¡°So we tried to incorporate it into dishes people already know, so it feels approachable even for first-timers.¡±
A sibling trio under the name Murr Project that created a perilla oil makguksu dish, echoed that sentiment.
¡°When people try natto for the first time, they often hesitate because its sticky texture can feel unfamiliar,¡± said Kim Su-ji, the middle sibling of the trio behind Murr Project. ¡°But when it¡¯s paired with familiar flavors, it becomes easier to enjoy.¡±
Currently working as a natto marketer in Korea, She noted that awareness of natto in Korea has grown in recent years, driven in part by media exposure and increasing interest in health-focused foods.
¡°Before, it felt more unfamiliar,¡± she said. ¡°But now, more people are encountering it through TV, YouTube and diet trends. Events like this show that it¡¯s becoming more accessible.¡±
Food as cultural exchange
For some participants, the event also became a way to express personal and cultural identity.
Minjun Cooks, a France-born, Korea-based creator known for his vegan recipes, presented a beet hummus natto sandwich.
¡°Cooking is a way to exchange cultures,¡± he said. ¡°Being able to express my identity by using a single ingredient in various ways is really fun.¡±
Minjun Cooks holds a sign promoting his beet hummus natto sandwich, which sold out at a natto event in Seoul. (Tammy Park/The Korea Herald)
Another team called Susu created a vegan natto quiche inspired by French home cooking, layered with Korean and Japanese elements.
¡°It reflects the times we¡¯re living in,¡± said Oh Su-jin of Susu. ¡°Different cultures coming together ? and finding balance through food.¡±
Meanwhile, for Takano Aiko, a Japanese participant who runs an online miso shop in Korea called Karite, the process felt a bit different. While many brought natto into familiar Korean dishes, she worked from flavors she already knew ? gently incorporating Korean influences into her cooking.
¡°I used kkosiraegi (sea string), a type of seaweed I hadn¡¯t really come across in Japan,¡± she said. ¡°Trying it with natto felt new, but also really enjoyable.¡±
¡°I want to incorporate more Korean fermentation going forward ? not just in flavor, but also in how people connect,¡± she added. ¡°I hope different elements can mix and come into harmony.¡±
Guests of all ages, including families with young children, gathered at the natto event in Seoul on March 29. (Tammy Park/The Korea Herald)
Guests lingered, chatting and mingling, at the natto event in Seoul. (Tammy Park/The Korea Herald)
Kim Han, a percussionist and special guest performer, points to his illustrated self on the official event poster. (Tammy Park/The Korea Herald)
Slowing down, together
Throughout the day, the event moved at an unhurried rhythm.
In a city where trends often rise and fade quickly, Je said he hopes his space, ¡°Nottodo,¡± short for ¡°not to do what people make you do,¡± can offer a different pace.
The philosophy centers on a quiet refusal to follow ready-made answers, focusing instead on what feels essential without rushing ? much like fermentation itself, which takes time and patience.
¡°Rather than something flashy or short-lived,¡± Je said, ¡°I hope these kinds of healthy foods ? and the way people share them ? can settle into everyday life.¡±
Participating teams pose for a group photo after the natto event in Seoul on March 29. (Courtesy of Je Joon-hyuk/Nottodo Natto & Bar)